Hi dzl, yes, i've been for a ride. All seems well, it shifts perfectly, but clutch slips in 3rd 4th 5th gear full throttle, and is hard to get into neutral.dzl wrote: Tue Sep 03, 2019 12:52 pm Hi Doubleyoupee....so you have been for a ride on the bike? Presume you have couple mm freeplay at clutch lever freeplay?
Hm...Weird thing is if I back it off 1/4 there is still tention on the push rod. If I turn it it in until I feel resistance and then back it off 1/4, the push rod arrow is not aligned with the crankcase marking as per manual.dzl wrote: Tue Sep 03, 2019 12:52 pm I would re check the adjust screw for clutch push rod and yes back it off 1/4 turn to allow for expansion when engine gets hot.
It's stock. Regardless, I checked the free play at the engine side. The cable is a bit lose in the cable holder so there is definitely free play on the cable.dzl wrote: Tue Sep 03, 2019 12:52 pm Do you have the correct clutch perch and lever? I have had an aftermarket clutch lever that didnt allow the cable to pull as much as it should do, causing clutch to not fully disengage and causing clunking/ hard shifting. Replaced clutch lever with OEM which had different bend, allowing more cable pull and fixed it. Did you check your clutch spring length also before installing and are within spec?
I put the torqued all engine bolts including this one to spec with torque wrench. It shifts fine otherwise.dzl wrote: Tue Sep 03, 2019 12:52 pm Something I have also come across that caused difficult operation of gear lever after engine rebuild, is if the mounting bolt for the stopper lever for the shift drum has been over tightened. If it has it will cause the stopper lever to bind and cause stiff gear lever operation and gets even stiffer the hotter the engine gets. Needs to be torqued correctly to 10nm only.
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Thanks


