Oh yeah, also the steel spacers that I am using as replacement are toothed all the way round. As opposed to the ones coming out that have 3 groups of 5 teeth and 1 group of four.

Eees problem for me, no?

OK disregard what I was saying about the back of the clutch hub. What is it they say? They broke the mould after they made that one.....



This is the discrepancy in spacer teeth that I was talking about....


The new one is on the left

In the interim, the friction plates are soaking overnight in oil. I they don't need that long but Pointless is on in a sec and well.......... It's a tough life being a student !

[quote="xtrider"]

There should be a ring , it looks like a big snapring, also and 2 of the pressure plates will have a bigger inside diameter, those parts go on in a certain order.

Thanks for the pro tip re. the order, I probably would have missed that, I know there's quite a lot of strong opinion either way but....does an expensive bike specific synthi really make that much difference.... ?

For these older bike, not really. In the new motors that have tight tolerances and run higher rpms ect.. they do benefit from the high quality synthetics. In the good 'ol thumpers a decent brand name "standard" oil works just fine as long as it is a motorcycle type(no friction modifiers, aka moly especially) designed for wet clutches. I will never use normal car oil, but some do and don't have issues, but I say why bother .

That said, I myself usually do run synthetics because I have several race quads with the high strung engines so I have a couple cases on hand always. If you want a good full synthetic that isn't that expensive go to you local Suzuki dealer and get their racing oil.

So I finally have a LEGIBLE copy of the workshop manual ( Thanks to nop's secret stash) and am about to reassemble the clutch. I just want to make sure that the order of the rings and spacers is correct. Pressure plate to clutch basket.

Friction pad
Spacer
Friction pad
Spacer
Friction pad
Spacer
Friction pad
Spacer
Friction pad
Spacer
Friction pad
Spacer
Small Diameter Friction pad
Spacer
Wave plate (I assume this is the large lock ring looking thing?)
Small Diameter Friction pad


Is this correct? I'm a little unfamiliar with the part descriptions still, I assume "Friction plate type B" refers to the small diameter plate. The problem is in the manual, there only appears to be one. Any ideas, champs?

Here's the relevant page from the manual...

Page 4-77 of the manual shows the correct order for the plates

Rick

Your order is backward, one of the bigger diameter id plates go in as the second disc , then the snapring looking spring. The second big id disc goes in last. On your diagram picture it as your looking from the front of the motor. The bottom hub goes on the crank first, then the spacer, then innerhub , washer and nut. The order then is: normal fiber disc ,
steel plate,
big id fiber disc,
steel plate,
normal fiber pad,
steel plate,
ect.. back and forth til the last fiber disc is the second big id disc,
The the outer hub with the 5 pockets for springs and bolts.

And by the way, that picture of the inner hub above, why is that looking like that, is that the old one?

Looking at your diagram I bet your manual is a Clymer or Haynes , I will never buy those due to being worthless. Your drawing is missing the arrow and reference # to the last disc showing it is one of the big id fiber pads. Man that's bad!

It's page 3-40 in my factory service manual.

xtrider wrote: Looking at your diagram I bet your manual is a Clymer or Haynes , I will never buy those due to being worthless. Your drawing is missing the arrow and reference # to the last disc showing it is one of the big id fiber pads. Man that's bad!

It's page 3-40 in my factory service manual.

That's page 4-74 of the 3YF factory manual, just a bad

Rick

US version manual VS European manual, = different layout

Thanks for the help re. the ring order guys. Working entirely from a poorly printed service manual is a pain. I wish they dis a Haynes for the Ten.

Anyway, I haven't been on for a while as things have become disastrous to the point of farce. Someone tried to knick the bike attacking the start switch ( Nothing to do with the field full of pikeys that have just moved in, I'm sure) so I now have to hotwire it with the keys in.

When replacing the clutch pressure plate I broke not one, but TWO of the "splines?" (the hollow tubes that seat the pressure plate nuts) on the clutch hub by over tightening.

I bought a toque wrench that had "TORQUES" in massive letters and "in/lb" much smaller underneath, so thinking I was working in ft/lbs......

I've left the broken one in for now so no picture at the moment but does anyone happen to know where could get one cheap (I'm in the UK) I struck gold before, getting one for 25 quid delivered, but now...

Would this be better off in a different type of thread, thinking about it?