Pull up a chair with a beer or cuppa. We have a bit to get through. Personally, I am knocking off some Stoly vodka and blues on the radio.

After doing a fair bit of reading. I was still no wiser on how to change the rear main seal on the engine. Lots of horror stories of cranks moving and engine rebuilds and seals tearing at $45 a pop.

I think the rear main seal has a bit of leak Scottie. The cover below is the oil pump. Spent a bit of time cleaning off all the grease, dirt and oil of the bell housing. Before we start.



The centre guide ring has to come off first. Nothing like a bit of home madey stuff to fix things



Borrowed a BMW special tool from a BM tech friend. The BM tool looks like some thing from the WWII.



New rear main seal fitted and all the o rings replaced.



Clutch and fly wheel refitted.



Most of the parts are back from the powder coaters. I made the mistake of leaving the steering head bearing cups and swing arm bearings in place. The steering head cups are fucked and the swing arm bearings are 33 years old and rooted.



Swing arm bearings where seriously hard to get out.



The steering head cups are stuck as well. Get the welder out No return if the welder does not get them out.



All that done. Out with the thread tap to clean out all the threads.



Next stop. The front of the engine. Replace leaky seal. Replace the 140,000 km old cam chain. Put in a new alternator and starter motor. Well that was my Saturday.

your one seriously motivated chappy

jibber wrote:your one seriously motivated chappy

Sounds a little bit deja vu. My Tenere resto was on the red cordial as well

While cleaning up the garage yesterday. I found a new set of front and rear spokes and nipples for a 34 L. Funny what you find when not looking.

Just Dan wrote: I found a new set of front and rear spokes and nipples for a 34 L

How much do you want for them?

Mezo.

Mezo wrote:

Just Dan wrote: I found a new set of front and rear spokes and nipples for a 34 L

How much do you want for them?

Mezo.

They are a give away. Some here could probably use them.

The spokes come from Thailand and would good as spares or for a trip. I don't think I would use them in resto, the plating looks a bit thin.

OK I will put my hand up. My 34l resto is about to start and my wheels are in a sad state.
I will flip you the postage cost to Melbourne.
We can do the rest by PM.

Been a bit slack in undated this rebuild thread,

Time to do some work on the front of the engine. The previous owner mentioned that the timing chain had not been replaced in 140,000km (85,000 miles). An yes it does need changing. Even with the tensioner in place. I can pull the chain away from the bottom sprocket.



Still a few miles left in the guide.



Timing chain replaced and a few goodies added.


Big care package arrived from the UK



It is easy pulling bikes bikes apart. Time consuming putting things back together. Spent about 3 hours rebuilding the rear brake thingo.



Rims are back from the powder coaters.



A bit of a mock up to see how things are going.



Now to get part A) engine back into part B) frame.



Ok time to put the engine back in the frame. I normally have a rolling chassis before putting the engine in. This time, I thought, I would try re fitting the engine into a bare frame. A lot easier. Just jiggle the frame up and down to align the engine bolts.

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Before refitting the engine. I rebuilt the front forks as the fork seals where leaking. Thread tape on the top bolts. The fork sliders had rust and pitting on the tubes. After I rebuilt the forks. I refilled the tubes with fork oil and there is a pool of oil on the ground. What is going on here. New copper washers were used under the fork legs. Removed the bottom 10mm allen key an used new washers, an the same thing happening again. Oil every where, Turns out the little copper washer on the drain screw next to main bolt was the culprit.

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Slipped the gearbox back in.

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Had a lot headaches trying to line up the swing arm equally. The pivot pins where really tight and you could move the swing arm side to side. Half an hour of head scratching trying to think what is going on. Powder coat on the inside surface area of the pivot pins and not allowing the pins to go in smoothly,

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What else could go wrong today, Should call it a day. Then, I noticed the filler bolt on the drive shaft has stripped, bugger. Out with the thread tap to see if it would fix the problem. Nope.

Digging into my old box of BM bits. I found a plug, I had made years earlier with a courser thread. I give that a try and it will work for the time being.

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Must stop bidding for things on Ebay:lol3 Ended up with a new set of engine bars.

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Wheels on. Still a long way to go

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Amazing how long it can take to fix little things like the seat lock.

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Keeping a bit of the police bike heritage. I am legally allow to speed now.

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Fitting the racks,seat & mudguard.

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Tank on for a bit of a mock up.

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Now the confusion really starts in main wiring looms. The original wiring loom is part number 61111244098 and fairly wrecked and needs a fair bit of work to salvage.

Andy Gadget comes to rescue with a new main wiring loom for an RT part number 61111243522. This loom is suppose to fit my bike. But is completely different in the amount of plugs and colour wire plugs.

Both looms are suppose to fit an 81 R100RT

Old Wiring loom

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New wiring loom

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Time to crack on with the wiring. I am still on the hunt for some reasonably priced headlight holders. So for the time being I am using a modified RT fairing carrier.

Started off removing this bit of wiring loom connected to the headlight shell. Not on any wiring diagrams and it has to do with the lights and sirens of a police bike.

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Cleaned up the mess inside the headlight from this

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To this. I am going to remove the fuses inside the bucket to blade fuses. To easy accessible place out the headlight bucket.

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New left hand switch block fitted.

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New sub loom made for the neutral and oil pressure switch.

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Still a long way to go in cleaning out each connection of mud and dirt.

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Wiring in headlight cleaned up √

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New left hand switch block fitted √

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New EME alternator and electronic bean can fitted √

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New coils and Starter motor fitted √

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Every time you work on a bike. There are always one or two parts left over.:lol3

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A bit of a mock up to see where things are heading.
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Little bit of DIY. External fuses. Won't have to remove the S fairing to check/replace fuses.



If it is ok for a Ducati Mille Gold line Brembos

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Something like...

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Bit of a fit up before splashing on some paint.

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Excellent as always- whats the plan on colours

xtjoe wrote:Excellent as always- whats the plan on colours

I am going to push the boundaries of my skills an go for the hardest paint scheme BM produced in the smoke R90S. Instead of Daytona orange. I am going for a candy apple red and silver smoke with a gold pinstripe on the fairing and tank.

All smoke paint jobs from BM are done free hand and I will have do the same.

Things are looking a little grey

So this sort of scheme but with your own touch right? (candy apple red and silver smoke)



Are you going/or have you practised on a bit of cardboard or anything? i know your history of paint mate but i was just curious.

Mezo.