Yes!!!! Hold on ... I comin´!!!
A little bit of tape.... some wire... and you´re done.
( who the fuck is Mac Gyver?)
;-)

Hey Fred, my wife has evolved her breathing since we married, she can now breath through her ears as we have a internal combustion bed! Apparently I snore from both ends
Regards Eric

...and now for something completly diffrent:
I want to change the forkseals.
Dustcover are off,
circlips are off,
internals are out,
...
How do I get the seals out without damaging something?
I can move the chromed tubes out utill a certain point. ( to the seals)
Then nothing moves any further. The chromed tubes are allready rattling in the bottles and and

Oliver

Fred333 wrote:...and now for something completly diffrent:
I want to change the forkseals.
Dustcover are off,
circlips are off,
internals are out,
...
How do I get the seals out without damaging something?
I can move the chromed tubes out utill a certain point. ( to the seals)
Then nothing moves any further. The chromed tubes are allready rattling in the bottles and and

Oliver

Hi Oliver,

It's the same for most forks without the oem tools.

As long as you have removed the internal circlip just above the fork seals and you have removed the bolt, damper rod allen bolt) that sits right at the base of the forks (bottles)(this is best done whilst the spring and cap are still in place this helps prevents the damper rod from turning) alternativly, compress forks to remove preasure on bolt head (damper rod allen bolt) This perhaps best done with a rattle gun Compressor if one is available.(but not when replacing as the threads can be easily stripped)

Having removed allen bolt and oil, place fork slider (bottles) in vice (protect the slider with wood in vice (and only tight enough to hold not sqaush the slider).
Now grip fork tube with both hands and yank/sharp pull out, this may take a few attempts. This should remove both the seal and the bush that sits inside fork slider. To aid removal some hot water over the area of the fork slider where the seal sits, This will exspand the metal on the slider.

Note which way the washer sits

Keep the old seals, they will aid the replacement of new seals part way in. I have used short section of scaffold pole to replace seals but if you do this protect inside of pole with cloth so you do'nt scratch forks!

PS the allen bolt will have had some thread lock and this is why difficult to remove. When replaceing do'nt use to much and replace the copper washer for new. But now I feel as if I'm teaching grandmother to suck eggs.

Hows that sound?

Just push the chromed tubes back in a bit & pull them out again sharply... they'll come out with the seals....

GeoffD wrote:Just push the chromed tubes back in a bit & pull them out again sharply... they'll come out with the seals....

+1, with a side note...

I belive this is why the UK is known for understatements.
I'd say "sharply" is too gentle a word.
Everytime I've taken a fork leg a part, it's felt like I was about to rip it into pieces (except for the fact that I'm way to weak to even dent it..)

Ok, thanks a lot gentlemen!

I will try it that way...
:-)
Triples, tacho , speedo, brake, clutch, switches and all that stuff are back on the bike.
Ofcourse I had to do it all over and over again because I didn´t remember what was where.
Rerouted wires and cables various times. But now everything is in place and well greased, oiled, and protected.
Good feeling...
Throttle and clutch operate much easier now.

Olli

The chromed tubes came out by using "some" force.
The bushings in the bottles did suffer a little bit.
But I think I can reuse them.
Everything looks good.
I want to make the bottles look like new again. ( Mr Tenbikes is my idol)

And a friend of mine had this for me:


He says, it is so much fun to install the forkseals with this tool you are dissapointed that there are just two seals.
We will see.
First polishing the bottles...
Olli

Now that is a cool tool.

Mezo.

Half an hour work:


Nice !!!



Olli