Scott's 3AJ restore

[xtzrick]

"don't want shop noise" whinging bastards, the loudest thing will be your radio.

The crank case puller.
I had to look in the manual to see what it looked like & where it fitted, all I 've ever used to split cases is a rubber mallet.
Can it be used as an alternator puller as well?

& did others use a crank puller in their rebuilds?
I think I remember an oven being used, or was that for bearing removal

Just seeing if we can save you some money Scottieh.

Rick

[scottieh]

The crank case puller.
I had to look in the manual to see what it looked like & where it fitted, all I 've ever used to split cases is a rubber mallet.
Can it be used as an alternator puller as well?

& did others use a crank puller in their rebuilds?
I think I remember an oven being used, or was that for bearing removal

Just seeing if we can save you some money Scottieh.
Rick

Thanks for looking out. I'd like to hear opinions about this. Do I need all of these tools? Valve spring compressor, yes. Others?

[GeoffD]

Rick's right Scottie, you don't need a crank puller, I use my plastic lead shot filled mallet, I guess a rubber one will do the trick too.... for separating the crankcases I use a large blunt screwdriver, there is 2 or three places on the cases where you can do this safely... once they are coming apart do NOT be tempted to pry the cases apart anywhere else... you will definitely need a flywheel puller, a clutch holding tool, a torque wrench, a piston ring compressor is also a great help......... an engine stand is not neccessary but an invaluable aid... a good set of spanners, socket set & allen keys & most of all patience... of all the jobs you can do on your bike I reckon rebuilding an engine fron scratch is the most rewarding...

[scottieh]

Got the garage cleaned out and put the Tenere front and center. No real bike stand for this guy right now. Gonna have a go at it with it mounted on jacks.


This guy's a project about a year from now. 1980 CX500.



We're getting there! Engine comes out tomorrow. It's amazing how similar all these blends of air-cooled thumpers are. I'm getting a better camera for these photos too.



Made some progress analyzing the bike. The starter is apparently dead. Solenoid fires but the starter doesn't turn. Also I think I'm going to go back to the stock headlights. I used an HID kit but it would always flicker on and off when I was accelerating and decelerating, which made night time driving a giant pain. I kept the original connectors so I could go back to stock.

In the mean time I got an opportunity to listen to some amazing hifi audio equipment. My friend is a hifi nut and befriended the local repair shop, and got wind that a set of Accuphase monoblock power amps and a pre-amp were going to make an appearance in the shop, so we did a little filming. Accuphase is born from the Kenwood designer's disgust of that company's lack of continued commitment to quality stereo, so they broke away and formed their own company. Accuphase is considered the Mcintosh of Japan. Super hi fidelity sounds. Each channel (two separate power amps per channel) is capable of providing 1,000 watts of power to each speaker. Each power amp has two power cords with a power draw of 1,400 watts. When turned on and just idling, the system can draw up to 1,000 watts - just sitting there! With a 300 watt power input, they output 100 watts of energy, meaning the overhead for power consumption is 1/3 of the drawn power, essentially preventing distortion from ever happening. Each power amp weighs in at 125 pounds. They are insanely well made and produce a sound of such high fidelity, it just about makes you cry. Here's the beastly little devil. In 1992, the system retailed for about $50,000. Today the repair shop guy is getting it for 9 cents on the original dollar. Quite a bargain!

[scottieh]

Rick's right Scottie, you don't need a crank puller, I use my plastic lead shot filled mallet, I guess a rubber one will do the trick too.... for separating the crankcases I use a large blunt screwdriver, there is 2 or three places on the cases where you can do this safely... once they are coming apart do NOT be tempted to pry the cases apart anywhere else... you will definitely need a flywheel puller, a clutch holding tool, a torque wrench, a piston ring compressor is also a great help......... an engine stand is not neccessary but an invaluable aid... a good set of spanners, socket set & allen keys & most of all patience... of all the jobs you can do on your bike I reckon rebuilding an engine fron scratch is the most rewarding...

What size flywheel puller do I need, and if you already have one, which one is it? This is the brand I've been looking at and there are about 40 to choose from - http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/All-V ... eel-Puller

[ActionManMelb]

If you look at those listings there are only about 3 different part numbers, each one fits multiple bikes.

This one - 179010002 Tusk Flywheel Puller 27 mm – Fits: Yamaha XT500 1976–1981
will do your bike and most Yamahas.

To split the cases see my post in the workshop/engine section.

BTW, nice amp. I used to work for Pioneer Electronics in the 70's.

[xtzrick]

"don't want shop noise" whinging bastards, the loudest thing will be your radio.

Rick

Hmmm.... I'm begining to understand their objection.

Rick

[scottieh]

Postman came today and dropped these goodies off for me! Clutch basket holder, 27mm flywheel puller and a valve spring compressor. I've been off the job for some time as the real job takes precedence.



Here's some work stuff. Expensive things make pretty pictures

[scottieh]

Hey everybody. Been busy. Got the side covers off and the top end off.



So far the clutch assembly looks fine. Still need to check out the selector for official diagnosis on what's causing the clutch to catch and not shift smoothly.
The cam looks good with no wear on either the head or the cam.





When taking the carburetor off I saw a lot of oil build up on the right intake port


and with the head off you could clearly see the right intake valve was leaking a little, and with the piston exposed, you could see there was some cylinder scoring, which was allowing oil up into the valve region.


Yummy

Here's our engine stand, made from an old table without a top. Worked just fine actually.

There was a lot of build up! Luckily a hit with the wire wheel took all that build up off an brought the valves back to like-new. Here's my friend Joel doing the valve cleaning. I'm using his garage and a lot of his knowledge.



I'm going to drop this head into an ultrasonic cleaner today for a few hours and let the good vibrations take most of the gunk off, then reseat the valves.

I'm also redoing the plastics so they get a good sanding before priming, painting, stickering and clearcoating.


I'm sad because I'm blue.


Now, I have a very important question. I think my cylinder is two millimeters overbored. My piston has these markings on it, which has been described to me as being an indicator of 2mm over.

Can you confirm this? I'm concerned because I'm not sure how much more I can bore out the cylinder and still get a piston and rings for it. Does Yamaha make a 2.5 overbore or how about Wiseco? Right now it's the only thing I am really concerned about. I'm considering the cost of pressing out the old sleeve and pressing in a new sleeve as compared to finding a new barrel with fairly new sleeve in it. Any help with this would be appreciated.

Also, Actionman, I'm trying to interpret your case splitting explanation. How much of the engine needs to be taken out of the case before I can insert the mate 1.25mm rod into the lefthand case side and begin screwing. Also, what exactly does the rod push against? I'm about ready to take the flywheel off and I'm not sure if I should yet. Thanks everybody, this has been fun so far.

Oh yeah, one more thing. Neither I nor Joel have taken a kickstarter off before so we're not sure how to proceed with removing the assembly and especially the return spring and ensuring it goes back on properly. What are the proper steps for this part of the deconstruction? Thanks!

-scottie

[Mezo]

Hey Scottie, ill let Uncle Dave answer the case question, but the head ill have a go at.

I think the oil possibly is due to a fucked valve stem oil seal, you may need to get them seats re-cut as well.
How does the face of the valve look? you may get lucky on both & just a case of lapping the valves in.

Dave`s arse in 40,000ft in the air right now on his way to Pomgolia for his European tour, he is going to be keeping in touch with the forum whilst on his holiday so just be patient when it comes to answers, there's others on the forum who can give you advice so don't fret, Geoff will answer some question on that im sure Scot.

I think you can go three oversize on the bore but depending on the maker? and how they measure it, best you actually measure the ID of the bore yourself Scot.

Sourcing another barrel is not so hard so, so again if your at the limit just put the word out & the lads on here will all look for another used barrel for you.

EDIT: How much play (if any) is there in the valve in its guide (sideways movement) jiggle jiggle.

Mezo.