Wowwww Scott!!!!Like to see teneres insides!
Those wheels.....so sexy
Are you going to paint that engine in black?
Nice CX 500 proyect.
This was my first bike,I was 17

Yes, I plan on recutting the valve seats. Got the suction cup and grinding compound all ready. Just need to get the gunk off out of the head first. The valve guides all felt good actually. I checked for side to side play and there really wasn't any. Nothing has been loose yet. Conrod is good, valves are good, the teeth on most gears have been nice and sharp without wear. So far aside from the need to overbore and the anticipation of replacing 4th and 5th gear everything is going well. No surprises.

And rick, it's always nice to see old hondas look new again. I sort of wanted to bring it back to factory new but heck we'll see. Finances may dictate the future of the bike after the total cost of this rebuild has been calculated. No mechanic's fees so far! Woohoo!

I'm considering the cost of pressing out the old sleeve and pressing in a new sleeve as compared to finding a new barrel with fairly new sleeve in it. Any help with this would be appreciated.

Re-sleeving is cheap and easy to do. I have just done one for Xpag. You can buy a sleeve on ebay for $80. Heat the barrel in the oven or with a big propane gas torch and press out old sleeve. Only 3 or 4 tons pressure required, which is tiny in press land. I am away in pommyland at the moment, but intend to post pics of the re-sleeve operation we did the week before I left.

Dave`s arse in 40,000ft in the air right now on his way to Pomgolia for his European tour

Safely arrived and was walking down the Strand and Pall Mall this very afternoon. Also took a ride on the London Eye.....not recommended for vertigo sufferers!

Can you confirm this? I'm concerned because I'm not sure how much more I can bore out the cylinder and still get a piston and rings for it. Does Yamaha make a 2.5 overbore or how about Wiseco? Right now it's the only thing I am really concerned about. I'm considering the cost of pressing out the old sleeve and pressing in a new sleeve as compared to finding a new barrel with fairly new sleeve in it. Any help with this would be appreciated.

Also, Actionman, I'm trying to interpret your case splitting explanation. How much of the engine needs to be taken out of the case before I can insert the mate 1.25mm rod into the lefthand case side and begin screwing. Also, what exactly does the rod push against? I'm about ready to take the flywheel off and I'm not sure if I should yet. Thanks everybody, this has been fun so far.

Most rebore increments are 0.020" (20 thou) or 0.5 mm and are generally available up to 4th oversize (2.0mm or 80thou).
Just measure your piston. Std size is 95 mm.

Flywheel must be removed to split the cases. The bolts press against the crankwheel faces.

Hey, silly question but is the threading on the flywheel nut a standard threading, or is it backwards? Having some trouble getting the nut off with standard hand tools and wanted to asl the forum and consult the service manual before moving up to air tools. Any advice would be appreciated

Is it a reverse thread? good question & one i forget now to be honest Scottie, just wait a short while & one of the lads will answer correctly.

On another subject, Eric had mentioned Boats.net had a sister company over there in the US & it was supposed to be cheaper than Boats & ive just checked & the old fella (bless him) is 100% correct, so when you need parts go here.

Mezo.

It's a normal thread Scottie, it's not usually that tight though

Got the flywheel nut off with an air wrench. However the flywheel puller I got is the wrong style so I'm going to have to use a different method to get it off. I got the sidepanels down to 400 grit sandpaper and the handguards are down to 120 grit. Going to place a parts order today or tomorrow, which I'll post once its ordered. Can anyone help me source a replacement sleeve for the barrel so I can go back to a stock piston and rings? Dave mentioned ebay but I've never even considered resleeving until recently and don't know what to look for. Inner diameter? Outer diameter? Length?

The sleeve is pretty much the same for ALL Tenere's. Fitting the sleeve is a breeze, all you need is a 10ton press and a large propane torch.

Heat the old barrel with sleeve to 300f and press the sleeve out. Keep the barrel warm whilst you have been cooling the new sleeve in the freezer.

Drop the cold liner into the hot cylinder and it should almost fall in flush. May need a little help with the press.

The new liner will need boring to STD size (95.00mm). That's it, that's the meal!! (Seinfeld)

Sleeve on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-XT600- ... 53e8e97200.

Well, trying to pull the flywheel yielded in some frustration. We got a puller set from Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piece-b ... 37824.html) to replace my inefficient puller and started to turn on the puller when the triangular piece snapped in half. It was a combination of weak steel and too strong a set in the flywheel assembly on the bike. So, we replaced the set with another one (same puller) and tried again but with a propane torch to help expand the metal. This time after some heating and turning, some of the thread from inside the flywheel's three holes came out along with the screw that was anchored into it . Now it won't accept a thread and it needs to be tapped to get some bite back into it. I can't understand how this flywheel is in the engine so tight. Joel can't understand it either. There are no bolts holding it on anymore so it's just in there and just needs to be turned out, right? We even took out the three bolts holding the starter clutch onto the flywheel out so it's not being pulled out along with the flywheel. Am I making a mistake?

-S

Pour jugs of boiling water over the flywheel before you try again.

Mezo.