Looking back through the posts on this bike I realise there's never been any of the complete bike.
So here she is...
Old bodywork apart from the side panels which I didn't have any spare so had to use the newly painted ones.
Original wheels and old enduro tyres
Original seat
The front mudguard has been robbed of it's fender extender as that was sprayed for the new bodywork.

Front view


Right side


Left side


Still to sort
I sorted the missing exhaust bolt today.
Put a thread insert into the right hand mirror mount as the original thread had been damaged and the mirror kept coming loose.
Swap to new black wheels and Michelin tyres.
I'm still not happy with the carb settings.
Order the Gauloises decals.
Sort out oil leak from starter motor without resorting to buying new seals at extortionate price from Yamaha.
Fit the Gauloises seat.
Put more miles on it.....

Oil leak from starter motor may be a cheap fix, if you only forgot to fit the inside bolt. Under the small starter cover.

Andy

No Andy, you'd posted about this before so I made sure about that.
So I don't think it's that, I think it leaks from the T shaped seal in the starter body.

I'll check it though. I have to remove the cover to repaint after I spilled fuel on it.

Quick update

this one here Andy...



All present and correct.
I actually think I've routed the breather hose from the oil tank wrongly.
I'll check this and try a new location, then we'll see.

The decals for the Gauloise etc have come, so I'll have a go at that.
And I've got some quick release fuel lines to fit which will make tank removal quicker, I'm paranoid about pulling the brass tube out of the alloy petcock.
And I've resprayed the starter idler cover after petrol made a mess.

A little further forward



front



and the other side

Black Excel rims with new Michelin Anakee Wild, excellent grip.
Quick release fuel lines on both sides to get the tank on and off quicker.
Finally got my fancy seat on it.
Decals from bikes and backpacks, really quick service and understood exactly what I wanted to do. There's more to go on, but I need to remove the original Tenere and 600 decals first.
Still not 100% happy with the carb settings.
Anybody got an easy way of adjusting the fuel screw, why did Yam not just put it on the left side, and not underneath

Hello Dan
People have used angle driver attachments.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/Right-Angle-Sc ... 7023125685

Shed owning gentlemen may fancy owning a rotary ratchet though :D
https://www.proxxon.com/en/industrial/23082.php

Turns the bit by rotating the handle. And still works like a normal ratchet as well. Invaluable tool it is

Andy

After convincing myself that I wasn't adjusting the fuel screw well enough, and fiddling with it for ever, I decided to get a second opinion from a knowledgeable mate.
He rode it, liked it, but came back with the following:
The head bearings are slightly tight.
It pulls like a train low down but thought it lean up top.
It might have a slight misfire, check plug, plug cap and lead.
So I went home, gave the head bearings 1/8 of a turn, removed the carbs again and lifted the both carb needles to the top. It was noticeably better but not good enough. At least we were moving in the right direction.
So I searched Fowlers for a bigger main jet, standard is 145, 150 is listed but not available, so I looked through my bits and bobs of spares and found a 155, result.
Carbs off again fitted the 155 jet and tried it, much better, nice on the road, probably slightly rich at top end so I need to drop the needles back to the middle or at least one notch.
I checked the coil, lead and plug cap by substitution with bits off the white 1VJ, no difference. So probably not that.

Decided to put some miles on her today seen as the weather was nice.

Hoping to do 50-100 miles round and about. Set off bumbling around the back lanes and the front felt a little hesitant. After about 25 miles realised the front brake was binding slightly so went home.
Striped the front brake to find one of the pad retaining clips to have a slight burr on it which was enough to stop the pad returning cleanly....there's always something.

I'll swap the clock units for a digital dash like on the white 1VJ, the genuine clocks are rare, delicate and easily damaged. The Koso dash is small, light and easily replaceable, it also offers the ability to change easily between MPH and KMPH, and a user settable temperature warning which is probably the most important feature for a 1VJ It also has a oil pressure warning

I've ordered a Wilbers shock for the rear, but due to the global situation that won't be here for at least 8 weeks.