Jibber your just plain inpatient, you Ijit!

OHHHHHHHHHH man, my heart goes out for you though, as I know that sinking feeling.

Is there not a way of bracing through bottom of column to inside the engine coupled with (or just) welding?

Possible I suppose, but not sure I would trust it inside the motor, have got a 1vj I could strip and use, will have to check and see if they are the same part numbers.

different numbers.....anybody know the differences ???

Oh shit....gutting when you are on the way forward going back together with it..I just try and remember..worse things happen at sea..when this stuff happens,my 465 had a fucked right hand case from a kickstart catastrophe..have a beer and come back to it in a couple of days..good luck.

Here is some more/better clues to aid alleviation in your dilema.

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/y ... r-1vj-5878

3AJ crankcase numbers 3AJ 15100

The guy I got the long lost left sidepanel for my 34l has a right hand 1vj case for sale..I've absolutely no idea if its same as 3aj,obviously its not ideal mix and matching different cases but sometimes it ends up only way out?..

Cheers guys, feel a bit clearer about it now, its got to come apart what ever, so will take it into work and see if weldings feasable as socks suggested, if not, then will look into changing cases ......... As said, could have been worse, spilt milk and all that crap.

jibber wrote:different numbers.....anybody know the differences ???

The 3AJ introduced the bigger oil pump and added an external oil pipe to spray the gearbox with lube.

Sorry, not compatible with 1VJ!!

I would be trying to either put a bolt right through the support post, or try low melting point aluminium solder.

The solder I'm talking about you may have seen at autojumbles and fairs where the guy will demonstrate welding/soldering Coke cans.

The "secret formula" is 98% zinc and 2% AL. It is self fluxing. It used to be sold at any ironmonger (love that word ) in the fifties and sixties to repair aluminium cookware and saucepans.

You can look at this link, the price is a bit steep tho. But it will give you some ideas.

http://www.durafix.com.au/index.php

You have my sympathies. I have successfully welded the crank case on a TT500 in 1982 using a low melting point alloy like Actionman has advised. It worked great for me and the break was worse. Materials have advanced over the intervening 30 years!! Go to a specialist aviation grade welder. They will preheat and bolt it to a flat plate prior to welding. Good luck

Luckily, I do work in the aviation trade, and the fab departments next door, that's where Sammy the weld works who also has a few bikes........