3AJ clutch issue maybe??

[Peen]

Now then,

I have been lurking on this forum for a while and have just bought a 1988 3AJ Tenere, with an impressive 1790 miles on the clock, which is genuine given the condition or the bike.
I can tell more if people are interested, cant be many with such low miles knocking about.

The engine runs fine, valve clearances in spec and such, feels a lot fresher and stronger than the 55,000 mile 2002 XTe I have.

An issue I seem to have is that it is hard to find neutral when the engine is warmed up and not the easiest to change into any gear, more so when properly warmed up. It seems easier to change gear when the revs are higher, but it is damn near impossible to get neutral with the engine running at a stand still, not uncommon I know, but even rolling forward a bit and letting out the clutch a bit doesn't help that much, but makes it possible sometimes. The lever is adjusted as far out as it can but the clutch still engages properly when released, so its not that. The newer XT with a lot more miles on it, has non of these issues, very easy to change gear, sometimes a bit funny to find neutral, but no more than any other bike, and given that they are pretty much the same engine, seems a bit odd that this one is so hard to change. Using the same castrol 10w40 oil in both, I know some people say different oil can help.

The bike has been sat for 30 years, hence the mileage, so my wonder/question is can the clutch plates swell up being sat in oil for so long, or something funny happen to them meaning there is more drag when the clutch is disengaged?
If so, does anyone know the specs for friction plate thickness?

I know I should really have the cover off and have a look for myself, but wondered if I could draw on some of your knowledge before going out and buying gaskets and clutch plates.

Thanks

[jibber]

I can not answer the clutch question, but would love to know how the hell you found such a low mileage 3AJ and some pics would be good? if it has been carefully stored I should imagine it must be close to new condition?. Assuming it was on its side stand all that time and with that mileage the ball check valve and seal would have been in good condition then I suppose it is feasible the clutch has been effectively dry for those years, specs will be downloadable through the links section..... but we need more info on the bike???????????????????? Thats the second low milage one to be posted about this week.......where the hell do they come from.........?????????????????????

[Peen]

It was on eBay not too long ago, the description was a bit vague, but I took a chance, at £1650, I reckon it was worth it. Guy who had it before me had only recently bought it but lost interest in restoring it (which raises suspicions), and he bought it from the person who had stored for 30 years after scaring himself on it.
Checked the DVLA and saw it was due its road tax in 1989 and I put it through its first ever MOT a couple of weeks ago. Took a bit of cleaning as it was full of cobwebs and cat hair, but the important parts were immaculate, wiring loom is as new, wheels, frame, suspension, everything spot on, engine sounds as good as an xt600 can, some surface corrosion in places from storage, but nothing bad. Someone decided to leave petrol in the tank for 30 years, which caused its own problems, but thats been sorted and it starts on the button and runs fine.
At some point, someone decided to do a Camel trophy paint job, and didn't do the best job, but its presentable and very period.
I'll try dig out some pictures.

Another point on the clutch, if its left for a day or so, the clutch sometimes is a bit seized, but frees up easy enough. Like when changing into first for the first time after starting and the bike clunks forwards as the clutch is freed, then its ok. My suspicion is that the clutch plates may be swollen and/or gummed up with old oil, I have read somewhere someone has had a similar sounding problem on a different bike that was stored and new friction plates fixed it.

I have ordered a gasket, and will have the casing off when it comes, but am a bit reluctant to buy new friction plates just yet.
Maybe someone has another suggestion?

[scottieh]

I think these engines have a known history of being a little difficult to put into neutral, but if it’s nearing impossible then I’d start looking at the friction and steel plates like you mentioned.

What’s your rate of success when dropping from second down to neutral? I find myself doing that a lot when I can’t go up from first.

And yes, friction plates can swell and get stuck together. I’ve had to pry apart some old plates on bikes that sat for a long time. The bike ran okay but new clutch parts are the proper fix. As clutches are a general maintenance and wear item it wouldn’t be out of the ordinary to replace them just as you would a chain or sprockets.

[xtrider]

Change the oil and beat the crap out of the clutch, aka start in too high of a gear and slip a lot, get it hot. Those fiber plates are gummed up from sitting in old oil and not being used . Not trying to get this into an oil debate , but I HIGHLY ,recommend putting in Klotz Mx4 oil for at least one or 2 changes to sort out that clutch, then use whatever . Buying used bikes and atv's for a lot of years it was normal to get horrible clutches from previous owners using cheap oil, automotive oil, loooooooong change intervals, ect.... and the one oil that took care of almost every one of them was the Klotz (Mx4 version is what I've used , can't remember if I ever used the full syn in these cases).
I had an '01 Rpator 660 that I bought new , and used mostly Yamalube or Honda Pro4 , it always had a stuck clutch if it sat for a couple weeks, from day 1 , even after 3 years and 8500miles, sand duning , trails , snow.riding ect.. still stuck exactly the same the day I sold it , but I hadn't learned of trying Klotz back then , sure it doesn't fix'em all .


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[Peen]

Hmmmm,

Im edging towards replacing the clutch plates rather than hammering the clutch to try sort its self out if I'm honest.
I want to have a look in behind that case anyway just for peace of mind with an engine thats sat for 30 years, with 30 year old oil in it.

I dont quite trust that the oil from the tank didnt seep into the sump in all that time and half submerge the clutch in oil to soak.

Only one way to find out, and if all is well, at least I'll have a spare set of plates in the unlikely event of burning out a clutch.

[Doubleyoupee]

Sat for 30 years? I'm surprised all the engine seals etc. were still ok and that the piston wasn't semi-seized in the barrel.

[Peen]

Well, it seems to have worked, clutch works as it should now. Although it felt like it was getting better just before I changed the plates, so probably would have sorted it self out in time, as suggested.

And yes, sat for 30 years, tax was last due in 1989. Seals and everything are fine, no leaks, oil filter cover did a bit, but replaced it and all is good. Guy who had it before had got it running, no not sure on the state of it then, but looking under the clutch cover it looked spotless, like a new engine, so I imagine the bore was ok, doesn't burn oil or make any bad noises.














Asuming those pictures uploaded correct the first is how I bought it, and got it back on the road, took a bit of de-cobwebbing

[jibber]

Double barrel exhaust.............! what make is that??

[Mezo]

Double barrel exhaust.............! what make is that??

Geoff had one on a bike he purchased years ago & offered it to us remember?

Mezo.