Bazmonaut's 3AJ rebuild

bazmonaut
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Re: Bazmonaut's 3AJ rebuild

Post by bazmonaut »

Thanks Mezo.

Am now starting on the cylinder and top end. I have a hone and new rings. Piston skirt looks good though some carbon on the top.

Any tips for this stage of the build gratefully recieved as I have not done a full cylinder + top end rebuild before.

Really missing my blast cabinet! Paint stripper and wire wool it is... I have some ally acid cleaner: phosphroic acid & hydrochloric acid cleaner from race glaze. I don't think I want to get it on the mating surfaces, but not sure... can I use it to clean the piston?

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bazmonaut
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Re: Bazmonaut's 3AJ rebuild

Post by bazmonaut »

A mini-update, to allow you guys to offer sage advice before I go too far...

Cleaning the engine parts without a blast cabinet is actually not too bad. I have done the head cover and most of the barrel already. I reckon by the time I have finished, it will be about the same effort needed to do the brakes.

So here's where we started: most paint has already flaked off but some still stubbornly hanging on, and loads of corrosion patches and staining.

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The method that seems to work best is to apply paint stripper to the paint patches, wait 20 minutes and hit with a brass wire brush on the Dremel. Then pressure wash. Then put it in the sink and rub it with wire wool and/or the brash brush again. Rinse and repeat. I have done two cycles so far and nearly done - however I did try other things like a green scourer but they didn't seem to do much.

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Here is the head cover which is now ready for painting. I also hit this with phosphric/hyrdocholic acid after taping over the camshaft journals. I am not convinced it did very much though, as I had already removed all of the corrosion via mechanical scrubbing. Maybe it will make a better surface for the paint? ...who knows. I am not going to use it on the barrel or head, as I am worried that it might etch something it shouldn't...

You can't tell that it hasn't been blasted can you? slywink:

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That's because of my secret weapon. An el cheapo sandblasting gun and 5kg of aluminium oxide from eBay. Oh, and a piece of tarp (an unused car boot liner) to catch the media of re-use. I think I used 1/4 cup of media to just puff into those nooks and crannies that I couldn't get to with a wire bruch. I wouldn't want to do the whole thing without a blast cabinet, but for touching up those hard to reach places its a great cheap tool (...as the actress said to the bishop...).

In case it needs stating: DON'T USE SAND. Google 'silicosis' if you need convincing. Always wear a respirator. Don't fuck about with your lungs.

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In other news, it's worth checking that your head cover is a matched pair with the head. This is because the camshaft journals are machined with both parts bolted together. Use a mis-matched pair and the machining won't match up and you'll have problems [Edit: this statement may be BS, see scottieh's post below]. I have three engines in pieces so needed to check I had the pair matching pair.

You can check by looking at the IDs scratched ('cos they are) into the inside of the cover and on the head. See the pic.

I'm constantly amazed at dickheads on eBay selling one half of a crankcase - useless without it's matching other half. You can also find the same sort of IDs on the two crankcase halves.

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The paint stripper I'm using is Paramose, and it works brilliantly. I wear a full-face respirator though. If you catch a whiff of it you know about it, and it also stings the eyes. Not to be messed with.

Works wonders getting carbon off a piston! I have a 'spare' piston and tried this and also phosphoric acid/hydrocholic acid - both work but the acid definately etches the surface while the paint stripper does not.

I'm also stripping the side covers back to bare ally. Some dickhead painted the clutch cover, including the inside edge that mates with the crankcase. So, it's all coming off and being repainted.

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Last edited by bazmonaut on Thu May 14, 2020 8:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
cadno
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Re: Bazmonaut's 3AJ rebuild

Post by cadno »

looking good fella. I like the paint stripper most modern stuff is totally ineffective
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Re: Bazmonaut's 3AJ rebuild

Post by scottieh »

bazmonaut wrote: Tue May 12, 2020 11:39 am
In other news, it's worth checking that your head cover is a matched pair with the head. This is because the camshaft journals are machined with both parts bolted together. Use a mis-matched pair and the machining won't match up and you'll have problems getting the camshaft to turn! I have three engines in pieces so needed to check I had the pair matching pair.

You can check by looking at the IDs scratched ('cos they are) into the inside of the cover and on the head. See the pic.

I'm constantly amazed at dickheads on eBay selling one half of a crankcase - useless without it's matching other half. You can also find the same sort of IDs on the two crankcase halves. So, if you buy a head you also need the matching cover!
I gotta say as a builder of many 43F's, I've never had a problem with the camshaft turning when mixing and matching head covers to heads. Now getting an oil tight seal is a whole different story, but I have never noticed rubbing or outright seizure of the cam/chain/rockers. I'm currently riding around on a 43F bottom end from a donor with a mixed barrel, head, and head cover! Each component came from a different source! Bike runs great, just leaks a little oil out the head cover, as all of my rebuilds eventually do... Hell, even the engine rebuild with mixed components that I rode to Alaska and Central America didn't blow up after 20,000 miles. Maybe I'm lucky?
bazmonaut
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Re: Bazmonaut's 3AJ rebuild

Post by bazmonaut »

scottieh wrote: Tue May 12, 2020 6:32 pm I gotta say as a builder of many 43F's, I've never had a problem with the camshaft turning when mixing and matching head covers to heads.
Experience talks scottie - I have never mixed them so I don't have experience of the consequences. You have, so I'm calling bullshit on my own post! :lol:

Maybe you got lucky, and maybe it doesn't matter at all. I guess it's just theoretical from a machinists perspective. I see two parts machined as one, and think that over the thousands of these items produced they must have re-trammed the boring machine (many times), and therefore there would be variances.

Can we split the difference and say it's best practice to use a matched pair?

I still wouldn't do it though, especially with cases.
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Re: Bazmonaut's 3AJ rebuild

Post by bazmonaut »

Sooo.....

Good progress, some parts ready to paint. Still got some nooks and crannies to strip on some parts.

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But holy crap now I have to hone the cylinder. Not done this operation before, and I have to say it is counter-intuitive to make scuff marks in the cylinder. Fortunately I have a spare 34L cylinder that I have no imediate use for, and I am going to use it for practice.

Here it is with, ugh, lubricant.

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Re: Bazmonaut's 3AJ rebuild

Post by Bowler »

Hi Baz,
you've measured the piston to cylinder clearance?
bazmonaut
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Re: Bazmonaut's 3AJ rebuild

Post by bazmonaut »

Bowler wrote: Thu May 14, 2020 7:01 am you've measured the piston to cylinder clearance?
Hey Bowler - yes, measured the bore in several places and within spec. Measured it many years ago when the engine was first disassembled but I still have the numbers. Mmmm, maybe I'll measure it again...

It's a 4th OS piston 96mm. I got some NOS 4th OS rings off eBay for £25.

B
bazmonaut
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Re: Bazmonaut's 3AJ rebuild

Post by bazmonaut »

First the good news: the honing operation went well. I'm calling it a success. Not as scary as I thought. Lots of oil helped by creating a 'wake' so I could adjust my in/out to match the rotation speed. Also some hand-holding from a mate.

More good news, I took Bowler's prompt and re-measured the piston to bore, and it's 0.053 which is within spec. I took three sets of measurements, at different heights and rotations on the piston and in the bore.

All good so far.

Captain Cock-up did drop in though, when I discovered that it's quite difficult to fit a 96mm piston into a 95mm bore. The piston in the pic below is actually from an SRX, which I should have known because it's stamped 1JK (which I wilfully mis-read as 1VJ... the power of the human mind). This is easily explained because I also have an SRX engine in boxes, and the pistons must have migrated between the boxes over many years and several house moves.

So, thanks Bowler for helping me avoiding awkward disappointment. The £25 rings I was so pleased to buy will stil be used, but on the SRX build and not this one. Good news is that Fowlers appear to be filling orders again so I am going to order a set of standard rings with them.

More later.

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Re: Bazmonaut's 3AJ rebuild

Post by Bowler »

bazmonaut wrote: Thu May 14, 2020 7:48 am
Bowler wrote: Thu May 14, 2020 7:01 am you've measured the piston to cylinder clearance?
Hey Bowler - yes, measured the bore in several places and within spec. Measured it many years ago when the engine was first disassembled but I still have the numbers. Mmmm, maybe I'll measure it again...

It's a 4th OS piston 96mm. I got some NOS 4th OS rings off eBay for £25.

B
Good to hear! I'm always scared of people just putting pistons back "because they look good", but seeing the rest of you build I should have guessed that you don't do things halfway :goodjob:
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