Looks like I have a blocked pilot jet. (No idle without choke).
So I need advice on a couple of things -
How easy is it to remove the float bowl without removing the carb? Is it a Philips no. 2 screw head?
Is there anywhere to get a reasonably priced carb refurb kit?
It seems the only place to get 1VJ jets is on Kedo, but at £32 for the pilot, seems a bit much compared to the cheap complete kits for the XT600E on ebay at £11.99, and I'm wondering if any of the parts from those will do for the Z?
Carb kit
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charliext1vj
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Re: Carb kit
Carbs out for sure if you want to do a proper job.
The carbs are different the 3aj and 3TB than 1vj and earlier as they have a different float bowl and float needle other gaskets look the same.
There are a number of company's that say 1vj but they are the later carb parts.
Charlie
The carbs are different the 3aj and 3TB than 1vj and earlier as they have a different float bowl and float needle other gaskets look the same.
There are a number of company's that say 1vj but they are the later carb parts.
Charlie
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motorang
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Re: Carb kit
Hi.
You may or may not have found The Carb Tutorial yet?
The idle jet will not wear, a clean will make it as new.
Only hassle is to get the carb out. Float bowl screws are soft Japanese JIS heads, PH2 will nearly fit, better if you use the OEM screwdriver that came with the bike. I found Leatherman to fit nicely, too.
https://www.motorcycle.com/ask-mo-anyth ... llips.html
Best to replace them with Allen head screws while you are there.
I ditched the electric start and removed the starter, so I can get the floatbowl off no problem. I think else it would block access, really.
Andy
You may or may not have found The Carb Tutorial yet?
The idle jet will not wear, a clean will make it as new.
Only hassle is to get the carb out. Float bowl screws are soft Japanese JIS heads, PH2 will nearly fit, better if you use the OEM screwdriver that came with the bike. I found Leatherman to fit nicely, too.
https://www.motorcycle.com/ask-mo-anyth ... llips.html
Best to replace them with Allen head screws while you are there.
I ditched the electric start and removed the starter, so I can get the floatbowl off no problem. I think else it would block access, really.
Andy
Chop your own wood and it will warm you twice (Henry Ford)
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cadno
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Re: Carb kit
You can get the carbs out with the starter motor on, no problem.
I have removed my fuel pump which does make things easier on the left hand side.
I normally remove the tank, remove the airbox in it's layers and then remove the rubber elbows. The choke plunger complete and the throttle cables. It will come out without removing anything else but it's very tight. I find removing one inlet rubber bolt on the left hand side makes it much easier as you can position the rubber inlet manifold out the way then.
I'm going through the grief of making my carbs work as I want them to.
I had issues with my first set of carbs, so I looked at the Fowlers Yamaha parts and was shocked at the component prices. I bought a Ebay Keyster kit and fitted it, which did improve things. But certainly not perfect.
So in the mean time I used a second set of carbs I already had and took the plunge buying all the available genuine Yamaha bits apart from the needles which are no longer available.
I removed the original anti backfire valve and ultra sonically cleaned the carb a few times, you'll be amazed at how much crud is behind that valve. I fitted a brand new Yam assembly there as popping on overrun was one of the issues. So took the original carbs off and fitted these genuine Yam equipped ones. It was better again but still popped on overrun more than it should and the idle is erratic.
I'm going to check the valve clearances before I play anymore with it and then really go to town on the air screw adjustment. Which is an absolute pain to adjust on these bikes, why Yam didn't put it facing the left hand side for easy adjust I'll never know. As it is you either have to let the bike cool down before adjustment, burn your hand or wear heat proof gloves.
I have removed my fuel pump which does make things easier on the left hand side.
I normally remove the tank, remove the airbox in it's layers and then remove the rubber elbows. The choke plunger complete and the throttle cables. It will come out without removing anything else but it's very tight. I find removing one inlet rubber bolt on the left hand side makes it much easier as you can position the rubber inlet manifold out the way then.
I'm going through the grief of making my carbs work as I want them to.
I had issues with my first set of carbs, so I looked at the Fowlers Yamaha parts and was shocked at the component prices. I bought a Ebay Keyster kit and fitted it, which did improve things. But certainly not perfect.
So in the mean time I used a second set of carbs I already had and took the plunge buying all the available genuine Yamaha bits apart from the needles which are no longer available.
I removed the original anti backfire valve and ultra sonically cleaned the carb a few times, you'll be amazed at how much crud is behind that valve. I fitted a brand new Yam assembly there as popping on overrun was one of the issues. So took the original carbs off and fitted these genuine Yam equipped ones. It was better again but still popped on overrun more than it should and the idle is erratic.
I'm going to check the valve clearances before I play anymore with it and then really go to town on the air screw adjustment. Which is an absolute pain to adjust on these bikes, why Yam didn't put it facing the left hand side for easy adjust I'll never know. As it is you either have to let the bike cool down before adjustment, burn your hand or wear heat proof gloves.
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Scumfrog
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Re: Carb kit
Thanks for the replies, all very helpful.
I don't think I would have come accross the carb tutorial in a hurry.
Cheap set of JIS screwdrivers ordered. and a set of various stainless allen bolts.
So the general consensus is that most of the 3AJ rebuild set will work, with the addition of the 1VJ gaskets and float needle? I hope that all I need to do is clean the pilot, but would prefer to have these on hand if dismantling the carb, for the sake of a tenner.
I'm currently working off the Clymer manual, which I don't think the author had heard of JIS either and I'm not that impressed with it, are there any better manuals out there? AlthoughI normally just go by the parts catalogue for an overview of how things are put together, is there one for the Tenere?
I don't think I would have come accross the carb tutorial in a hurry.
Cheap set of JIS screwdrivers ordered. and a set of various stainless allen bolts.
So the general consensus is that most of the 3AJ rebuild set will work, with the addition of the 1VJ gaskets and float needle? I hope that all I need to do is clean the pilot, but would prefer to have these on hand if dismantling the carb, for the sake of a tenner.
I'm currently working off the Clymer manual, which I don't think the author had heard of JIS either and I'm not that impressed with it, are there any better manuals out there? AlthoughI normally just go by the parts catalogue for an overview of how things are put together, is there one for the Tenere?
- Mezo
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Re: Carb kit
Clymer has plenty of mistakes.Scumfrog wrote: Fri Jun 04, 2021 8:07 pmI'm currently working off the Clymer manual, which I don't think the author had heard of JIS either and I'm not that impressed with it, are there any better manuals out there? AlthoughI normally just go by the parts catalogue for an overview of how things are put together, is there one for the Tenere?
Have you downloaded the factory manual yet? HERE.
Mezo.
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Reubodad
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Re: Carb kit
I needed some jets for my 34L carb... Ebay and search TK carb jets.. Very cheap, so probably Chinese but worked for me
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donnybach
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Re: Carb kit
I’ve never had a problem getting any carb parts from my dealer. Don’t piss around with eBay, they’re not always correct. And you’d only save pennies if anything. Any yam dealer, fowlers parts or cmsnl should be ok. Try dealer first.