Long waited update on the post. You were right, underlying problem was my stupid brain.donnybach wrote: Wed May 03, 2023 8:12 am Hi bud. Hope you get it sorted soon. I find the standard settings are mostly bang on. They tested it a lot to start with, so any deviation is probably hiding a fault. You have the carb off, so clean everything with solvent and airline the passages dry. Inspect every component before putting it back in and install to normal settings. This is needles at centre clip position, usually pilot screw 2-3 turns out. Float height is essential. I don’t have the specs for your model but the 1vj is 25-27mm float height, with fuel level 6-8mm below float bowl gasket when carb is level (front of bike raised). Install the choke on its own to see if it can fully close, and test the carb with it fully shut. Don’t buy aftermarket parts for the carb. Choke is about £60. Transformed mine.
So on the 5th day God.... found out that he had put the main carburetor needle cylinder (?) back into the retor facing the wrong way so the wedge was on the wrong side, which resulted in whatever massive disruptions it would result.... dumb me.. I worked on adjusting the carburetor for a total of 6 days because on the 2nd day I made an error when putting the carburetor back together.
I noticed it while I was doing some adjustments once again and was wondering hmm "is this even facing the right way", checked the video on youtube and found out that I fked up. Popped it back in correctly and gave it a test run. Aaaand it ran beatifully, no more air leaks, choke works, mixture adjustment screw worked and after some 15 minutes of idle rpm and mixture screw adjustment i got it working at 1250-1300 RPM'ish. Ran steadily and seemed to be responding well to throttle engagement.
Because I broke the main jet (orig was 130) I bought a new one a little bit bigger - 135,(140 for backup) because I knew the new dominator muffler will need more juice. The secondary retor needle (the one that's attached to the diaphragm) sits on the 2nd lowest position. Main needle is in the middle. The rubber that sits on the bend of the choke needle holds the cable in place, because new oem for that is 90€ I fixed mine by taking the well preserver rubber off of my buddy's spare carburetor. Air cut off valve membrane was tough as a jellyfish and had no life in it so I replaced that with my buddy's old parts as well. Before changing the membrane the bike was popping hard while working idle, new membrane fixed the problem altogether.
Changed the rear bearings and brakes for the 1st time in my life. Mounted the rear pannier racks (heavy duties) and bags (bagtecs from motea) and mounted brand new Pirelli MT21 Rallycross tires with buddy of mine - OTT with the 1VJ.
Yesterday the hard db killer for the dominator muffler arrived which made the sound pretty much bearable now, and the bike has now more power on the high rpm range which was quite lacking before with the medium db killer. I was quite amazed how much of a difference such a little piece of metal at the end of the muffler makes.
Summary
* Had an old leaky manifold. It caused crazy rpm climb once it started sucking air.
*Replaced the old leaky manifolds with new /not oem/ parts. O ring behind the manifold popped out of its groove and caused a new major air leak.
* Recleaned the carburetor and put it back together wrong, main needle housing/cylinder was placed back facing the wrong way. Didn't notice it until the 5th day of carburetor adjustment. Caused bad idle, poor throttle control, a lot of smoke, no need for choke, not working mixture screw.
*Put everything back like it should've been all along and now I have a working bike.
I will post a picture of the bike some time later. Sorry to trouble you all!
