Dan's blue 1VJ

[Mezo]

You have to be very careful when taking them off and on.

I believe the lugs are glued on? can you take a picture just out of curiosity & have you snapped any of the lugs off yet?

Mezo.

[Bowler]

So.... what happened to the original moulds?

I am actually trying to get hold of a pair of JRE side panels for the 1vj.

Also will be looking out for OEM, but due to the rarity and value, wouldn't be cavalier enough to put them on the bike while riding it.

Has anyone considered other alternatives - 3d printing?

Or if I do find a set of originals, could make formers from them and fabricate from aluminium or GRP. Could be made stronger and better than the originals, they never stayed in good condition very long.

For the XTZ750 you can get fibreglass fairings from Perfect Fairings, but for a 1VJ I do not know. I also have a set of glassfibre fairing from mickyw2002 of the old STN, but getting them painted was very expensive...

[cadno]

Nothing snapped off yet.
I had to open the forward mounting lugs up a bit so they weren't getting stressed, and make the rear mounts more conical in shape.
I'll take some photos later....

[cadno]

Here you go, JRE side panel inner mounts:







I had to open out the front mount as the gap was too small.
The white you can see on the cone shape mounts is where I've taken off excess plastic to make them fit nicely.
You can clearly see on all mounts where they have been glued or bonded to the side panel.
In my case I use these panels so I don't have to worry about the genuine Yamaha panels getting damaged.

[cadno]

A little bit more done over the weekend.
Started fitting the Koso dash, it has lots of advantages for a bike that's going to be used, easy conversion between KMPH and MPH, oil change, temp and level, well protected, cheap and easily replaceable. I went the same as I've fitted to the white 1VJ.

[Spike]

So.... what happened to the original moulds?

I am actually trying to get hold of a pair of JRE side panels for the 1vj.

Also will be looking out for OEM, but due to the rarity and value, wouldn't be cavalier enough to put them on the bike while riding it.

Has anyone considered other alternatives - 3d printing?

Or if I do find a set of originals, could make formers from them and fabricate from aluminium or GRP. Could be made stronger and better than the originals, they never stayed in good condition very long.

I do believe they are in Brazil, but they will not export out of Brazil, I have tried and tried and in the end basically got told to f#ck off. However l have not given up I have a contact here in Australia who has family in Brazil so I am working on him !! If I can get them I will be buying a Plane load.
As for the Aussie 1VJ vacuum jobbies I am more than happy with mine

[Ambrosio]

So.... what happened to the original moulds?

I am actually trying to get hold of a pair of JRE side panels for the 1vj.

Also will be looking out for OEM, but due to the rarity and value, wouldn't be cavalier enough to put them on the bike while riding it.

Has anyone considered other alternatives - 3d printing?

Or if I do find a set of originals, could make formers from them and fabricate from aluminium or GRP. Could be made stronger and better than the originals, they never stayed in good condition very long.

I do believe they are in Brazil, but they will not export out of Brazil, I have tried and tried and in the end basically got told to f#ck off. However l have not given up I have a contact here in Australia who has family in Brazil so I am working on him !! If I can get them I will be buying a Plane load.
As for the Aussie 1VJ vacuum jobbies I am more than happy with mine

Brazilian greetings!
Just for the quotation example, an order of 2 pounds has a cost of 190 GBP via DHL.

[donnybach]

How’s it running now with the 155 jet? Did it change in the heatwave?

[cadno]

OK an update....
My youngest brother came over for the Bank Holiday weekend, so we did boys things, mostly involving fettling and riding bikes.
I had neglected this bike, I MOT'd got it running somewhere near, did around 100 miles on it and put it at the back of the shed. I bought a KTM 690SMCR last year and it became my 'go to' bike.
It had the following issues:

• I never got to the bottom of why attaching the neutral switch stopped the bike starting. So I just disconnected the wire from the neutral switch.

• It had an annoying oil leak from underneath the starter motor, not bad enough to stop using the bike, just enough to be a pain.

• The carbs had a 155 main in them but I'd left the needles on the bottom notch making them even richer, so the carbs needed to come off.

• The speedo reading on the Koso digital dash seemed a little optimistic so I needed to check the rolling diameter of the front wheel, ideally with someone sitting on the bike, and check the number of pulses registered for one revolution of the wheel.

• The electronic rev counter didn't seem to tally with my guestimated RPM so I needed to check number of coil pulses etc.

• I had a brand new Wilbers rear shock that needed fitting.

• It need the controls adjusting to suit my smaller (in stature) brother.

• It needed stop start running in/fettling.

[cadno]

So in the order above.

• I had bought non genuine relays off ebay for the starting circuits and had a gut feeling that these may be responsible. So knowing my brother was coming I'd ordered two genuine Yamaha relays from Fowlers which are crazy priced. But I put the correct relay in the correct location and tried to start it without the neutral switch connected, it wouldn't start, which is how it's supposed to work. I reconnected the neutral switch and the bike started no problem. And the moral of the story is don't trust non gen stuff. We later checked the relays and they were both the same type by memory normally closed, they're supposed to be one open one closed. But messing with this stuff created a problem in that if you messed with the wiring sometimes it would start, sometimes it was totally dead. We found some black tarnished wires and poor earths which we sorted but it was eventually traced to corrosion in the stop switch on the handle bar. So that was cleaned with the correct electrical cleaner.

• As I needed to remove the carbs it made sense to remove the starter motor and see if there was anything obvious causing the oil leak. We stripped the motor to find oil everywhere inside it a crusty corroded interior. It needed two of the T type seals and a brush set really, but with Yamaha prices as they are it made no sense, so cleaned the top crankcase of the oil deposited and robbed the new after market starter off the white and blue 1VJ. Thinking smugly that I'd sorted it. I hadn't, it still leaked but not as badly. Its got to be either the seal around the clutch actuator or the O ring underneath the oil feed pipe. So the carbs need to come off again.

• I took the carbs off and stripped them down to see if there was any dirt or blast media in them, I know I'm paranoid. Nothing at all, so I dropped the needles back to middle where they're supposed to be. After putting the carbs back on the throttle didn't seem to snap shut as well as it did before and now I'm concerned that the return spring between the two carbs needs another twist on it. I'll do this when I sort the above oil seals.

• I checked the circumference of the wheel with my brother sitting on it and it was slightly out, but the sensor was actually reading twice as many pulses as I thought it should do so we just changed the setting to 12 pulses instead of the expected 6. We went for a run with the KTM next to it and the MPH reading was exactly the same.

• I fitted the new Wilbers which is easy with one of the MX scissor type stands as you can jack it up until all the bolts just slide in and out. There was a big downside to the new shock however, my brother has a shorter inside leg than me and it's all he can do to get his leg over now we have a correctly sprung working shock. I'll have to source a shorter spring for it from Wilbers. It got so bad when we were out on it that he started looking for kerbs when we stopped

• I've not sorted the calibration of the rev counter yet.

• When I do the running in of my restorations I normally head up the hill at home and do ever increasing circular routes. In that way if it goes pear shaped it's a simple case of point the bike downhill and hopefully gain enough momentum to freewheel home if needed. We started with that and changed the position of the handlebars, levers, switches, rear brake and gear lever to suit him. The bike idles well and maintains an idle and is really clean but seems to bog down or stutter at around 4000rpm. It may be float bowl height or jetting or maybe even stator breakdown. I need to get it to my mate and see what he reckons.

We did about 100 miles on it messing about, I'd like to move the Koso dash higher up to make it easier to see. But I'm hankering after a Trail Tech Voyager Pro dash which has GPS and off road maps, it would also fill the void I made by removing the old clocks very nicely.
So in conclusion much better, one or two things still to sort but nearly ready for it's second MOT which is May 12th and its trip to sunny climes.